At Ingredient Solutions, we’re always interested in the roots of our craft. A newly transcribed 1580 manuscript titled “A pamflyt compiled of Cheese, contayninge the differences, nature, qualities, and goodnes, of the same” offers a fascinating look into the history of cheesemaking—and surprisingly, it shares insights that still resonate today. Written in Tudor England, the treatise combines contemporary medical thinking with practical dairy knowledge, shedding light on cheesemaking practices, milk science, and early debates on food ethics.
Milk Matters: Understanding the Source
The author makes a clear case that the quality and characteristics of cheese begin with the milk. Cow’s milk, he notes, is most commonly used and produces a cheese that retains moisture due to its high butterfat content. Ewe’s milk, known for its richness and ability to produce more curds, was frequently added to cow’s milk in places like Essex to improve yield. Goats’ and mares’ milk, on the other hand, were regarded as producing drier, less desirable cheeses.
This level of differentiation aligns closely with modern dairy practices, where fat content and solids-not-fat (SNF) levels are carefully managed to ensure optimal curd formation and texture.
Early Dairy Chemistry: Milk’s Composition
In a remarkably detailed passage, the author draws on classical sources including Galen and Aristotle to describe milk as composed of three parts: whey (the watery portion), cream (from which butter is made), and curd (the basis for cheese). While ancient authorities disagreed on the precise breakdown, the author correctly identifies these components through both scholarly reference and practical observation, noting that “every country woman doth ordinarily separate these parts.”
This early grasp of dairy chemistry was a practical guide for rural cheesemakers and a foundation for the consistent production of various cheese types.
Rennet and Ethical Questions
One unexpected section addresses the use of rennet—the animal-derived enzyme used to curdle milk—and its appropriateness for consumption during religious fasting. Some attempted alternatives using fish entrails to avoid the “flesh” element, offering a rare glimpse into ethical food concerns in Tudor times.
Today’s interest in vegetarian and microbial rennets mirrors this centuries-old concern, underscoring how ethics and diet have long intersected in cheesemaking.
On Salt, Texture, and Maturation
The treatise provides careful guidance on salt usage and aging. Too much salt, it argues, can cause digestive discomfort; too little leads to spoilage. The author advocates for moderation and consistency, noting that fresh cheese is soft, moist, and easier to digest, while aged cheese becomes sharp, dry, and more difficult for the stomach to process.
Importantly, the text notes that cheese evolves with time. Butterfat dissipates, whey dries out, and the remaining solids become harder and more pungent. These insights remain relevant in understanding shelf life, flavor development, and optimal maturation periods.
Regional Cheeses and Reputation
The manuscript offers a historical ranking of regional cheeses, with Banbury cheeses receiving special praise for their balance of tartness and soft texture. The writer also notes that pasture quality significantly affects milk, echoing today’s focus on terroir in dairy products. Grasses near the sea, he observed, yield salty milk and quicker-drying cheese—both pros and cons depending on the intended product.
Final Reflections: Cheese as Food and Medicine
The text ends with a nuanced discussion of cheese’s role in health. While some classical physicians viewed cheese as “naughty nourishment,” the author defends it as beneficial for many people, especially those with lean bodies. He advises moderation and attention to one’s individual constitution—a surprisingly modern view on nutrition.
Conclusion
Though over four centuries old, “A Pamflyt compiled of Cheese” offers timeless observations that still inform today’s cheese industry. From milk selection to curdling methods, salting, and aging, the fundamentals remain largely unchanged. For those of us committed to quality dairy ingredients, this Tudor-era manuscript is a reminder that good cheesemaking is both an art and a science—one rooted in tradition, observation, and respect for the craft.
Visit the link below to read the transcription in full:
Catherine’s role is Technical Assistant and she is one of the newer members of the Ingredient Solutions team. Catherine recently graduated in Food Science and Innovation at WIT and is motivated, positive and enjoys working in a team. Catherine says, “I always see the good in every challenge that approaches me as they can lead to opportunities to learn more.” She is looking forward to focusing on the areas that she can control and learning how to perfect them.
Ted is the Factory Manager, he is the man that keeps everything running smoothly, supporting production and technical operations. He ensures that all the machinery within the factory functions at maximum efficiency and is properly maintained.
Suma has worked for Ingredient Solutions for two years as Technical Manager – leading the technical team. Before working for Ingredient Solutions, Suma worked in Asia, the Middle East and Europe and has over twenty years experience in management and leadership in food and other industries.
Pina is our UK Sales Support Administrator and has worked for Ingredient Solutions since 2012. She works alongside Gary Davies and the sales team providing them with sales information and supporting the team especially when they are on the road. Pina works remotely for Ingredient Solutions from her base in Luton in the UK.
Marek is based near Lublin, that’s not a typo we don’t mean Dublin, he’s our man on the ground in Eastern Europe.
